163 Rock Wall Road along North Fork Illinois Bayou

     By definition the ‘Illinois Bayou’ is not a bayou, every dictionary I checked, even Wikipedia use words like sluggish, slow moving and stagnant, when describing a ‘bayou’.  The Illinois Bayou is none of the above, in fact at times during the spring it’s a renowned white-water playground.  A huge drainage in north central Arkansas the Illinois Bayou consists of the East Middle and North Forks, combined the Illinois Bayou flows into the Arkansas River (Lake Dardanelle).

Boyd Road at first crossing (Cedar Creek)

    In its headwaters, the North Fork Illinois Bayou begins at the confluence of Left Hand Prong and Right Hand Prong, this is where I want to go today.  Along the North Fork to the confluence of the Left and Right Hand Prongs.  The route I’m taking is just north of the ‘North Fork’ and puts me along the south side of Pedestal Rocks Kings Bluff SIA, see: (29 The Seven Shelters), (35 Wonders Downunder) and (74 A Bluffs Bushwhack).

parking near bottom of Boyd Rd.

    On the way to the trailhead driving down Boyd Road is a fun little 4 WD adventure in its own right, with multiple creek crossings, many rough sections and gorgeous Cedar Creek next to the road.  Most of these creek crossings are the Cedar Branches I recently explored up in the blufflines just below Morris Ridge see (160 Cedar Branch Bluffs) for more.

multiple channels of North Fork

    I park near the bottom of Boyd Road less than half a mile from the ford across North Fork (impassable most of the time).  Starting out west on the trail which once was a road (FR93082G), I notice orange plastic blazes nailed on trees, this is part of the extensive Cowboy Up Trail system and is referred to simply as ‘the Orange Trail’.

homesite ruins

    Before getting off Boyd Road I notice a rock wall along Boyd then curving and heading west along the old road (orange trail), this will be the first of many rock walls seen on this hike.  The old road the trail follows is well used by all forms of conveyance; 4 WD, ATV, horses, bikers and hikers, I see nothing that would prevent driving my truck down this road.

root cellar?

    I soon come to a small creek crossing followed by a big tree fallen across the road, here on the left is a good parking spot and to the right a road detour around the dead tree.  Back on the road there’s more parking back in front of the downed tree.  Then another small easy creek crossing and up above a tall bluffline, and another rock wall at its base.

big meadow...

    Soon is another good parking area, all along the road so far, I’ve heard rapidly moving water tumbling off little ledges and cascades usually just out of view but never far.  Then as the road turns to the north away from the North Fork, I see a faint trail continuing north on what appears to have once been a driveway, slightly uphill I go to check it out.

with many possible campsites

    Less than a hundred yards off the road are the stone ruins of a house, with some more stonework out front consisting of steps and a low wall and at the back of the house is what may have been the root cellar built into the hillside. I head back out to the west through a small clearing to the road.  At another parking place then an old campsite and across the road, of course  a rock wall.

'Orange Trail' blazes

    Before arriving at the next little creek are a couple big mud holes across the road and a detour to the north.  Near the creek crossing is an un-marked trail heading off to the north uphill into this creek drainage, I cross the creek and head back to the south and the ‘main’ road.  Here I enter a large meadow or ‘wildlife opening’ as the Forest Service calls them.  To me it looks like a campground waiting to happen.

spring daffodils help locate hidden homesites

    On the west end of the big meadow is another slightly smaller meadow, at the top of this open area the Orange Trail leaves the road at an intersection signed ‘Pedestal Rock’ but I stay on the road.  Soon crossing a small dry creek with rock walls down both sides of the drainage, and then a homesite with some daffodils just starting to bloom.  Above the flower beds maybe a hundred feet are a few stone remains of the house.

remains of an old house

    Down the road under 200 yards further I find a nice clean off-trail side trip to the river, at a very pretty spot on the bank of North Fork Illinois Bayou.  Here I have a little break while taking a few pictures and notice yet another rock wall,  this one across the river above the south bank.  Heading back to the road I pass another rock wall, now on the road again I’m under the point of a tall bluffline with another rock wall, up in the bluffs I make out what appears to be a couple nice shelter caves.

swift running 'Bayou'

    I soon enter another big food plot/wildlife opening (meadow) with plenty of locations for parking and camping.  Farther along, the road comes alongside a big boulder with a flat side facing the road.  Past here I notice the road has narrowed slightly, still drivable but now with all the low branches and tight brush you can expect some scratches on your nice paint job.

North Fork Illinois Bayou

    The next quarter mile of road stays close to the river with some nice views of still aqua pools and frothy rocky rapids.  Then an intersection, I leave the road and head north now following Right Hand Prong upstream.  Less of a road now, this looks like some ATV use probably occurred long ago but nothing recently, and the trail deteriorates rapidly into a pretty rough bushwhack.  Lots of rocks mixed in with greenbrier everywhere.

Roadside Boulder

    I’m looking for a waterfall called Hogdripper Falls but find no trace of anything more than about a foot tall.  There are multiple channels of Right Hand Prong all through this area, and I search them all but find no waterfall.  Turning around I make my way back onto the trail then the road, I turn right and come to what I’ll call the last parking spot.

tranquil spot on Right Hand Prong

    The ‘road’ continues down the short bank and crosses Right Hand Prong, before which I change into my creek waders since there’s nowhere to be seen where I can cross and keep my feet dry.  At the banks of Right Hand, the old road is washed out, now just a faint trail with a very big downed tree that can be crossed underneath without even bending down.

looking for the elusive Hogdripper

    Not far after the tree tunnel I cross Left Hand Prong sort of diagonally on some good-sized mossy rocks.  The trail now that I’m out of the rocky creek bed becomes more obvious and I soon come to a rock cairn at the left side of the trail.  Up above, somewhere in the bluffs is a cave known as Sunken Bottom Cave and I assume this cairn marks the place to leave the trail for a steep ascent to the cave.

Right Hand Prong

    I don’t see anything resembling a trail, and with the thick undergrowth including greenbrier, I think I’ll pass.  I continue just a little further to a spot next to the cut-bank above Left Hand.  Across the creek and up the hillside is an impressive bluffline with a couple apparent caves or shelters and two dripping waterfalls.  These are wet weather falls for sure, the lower looks to be maybe eight feet wide and 10-12 feet tall.  The upper fall is probably 20 feet above the lower and a little narrower but taller.

near Left and Right confluence

    I head back the way I came, crossing both Left then Right Hand Prongs then on the road it’s a quick trip back to the truck.  Along the way I think about camping in one of the big meadows and hiking up into the many blufflines with shelters and waterfalls including the two established trails leading north into Pedestal Rocks SIA, an adventure for another day.

Right Hand crossing

    Today I had a great time exploring an area I knew next to nothing about, I’ve only whetted my appetite for more, so I know future visits are in order.  Overall, this was a very easy hike with little elevation change on the nice wide trail (road actually), my total mileage was 5.8 with just over 400 feet altitude gain.

dripping falls hidden in the rocks

North Fork: Statistics Chart 163        Where to park depends on the off-road ability of your vehicle and how far you want to hike, today I parked at the side of Boyd Road about 3.1 miles down from the intersection with Highway 16.  The Boyd Road intersection with Highway 16 is about 3.6 miles east then south from the entrance to Pedestal Rocks Kings Bluff.  Boyd Road is not for all cars; I would recommend high ground clearance and 4-wheel drive.

base map before fair use alterations is property of USFS--licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 U.S. License

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