159 Fat Lip Falls and Richland Creek

 

    So far the new year has been cold and wet, when it isn’t snowing we’re getting lots of rain.  Today begins sunny and a little warmer, maybe a good day to look for waterfalls.  I leave the house and head south around 9:30 right after the temperature climbs above freezing, and land at the Richland Creek Trailhead for the Ozark Highlands Trail.

Fat Lip Falls

    Richland Creek Trailhead just north of the concrete bridge over Richland Creek, is clearly marked and has a newer sign-in box.  The trailhead marks the start of what I call ‘section 20’ of the OHT from Richland Creek Trailhead to Stack Rock Trailhead a distance of about 7.5 miles.  I plan to go as far as Long Branch before turning around and coming back.

Richland Creek Trailhead

    Back in early November I hiked ‘section 19’ on the OHT and found the trail (with the exception of the steep Landslide Bypass) to be in excellent condition, for those adventures see: (150 Campground Trailhead, and 151 Falling Water Trailhead).  Today, the trail here is also in great condition and well blazed, although a little mundane here to start.

scenic rugged point

    Heading out northeast it’s easy hiking to be sure, but what I find disappointing is that Richland Creek is so far off the trail, at the trailhead is possibly the closest point to the river.  I can clearly hear the rushing waters over the many rapids far below through the woods but rarely catch a glimpse of the creek.  Also, occasionally I’ll spot the old road down below that follows close to Richland, hmm... maybe I’ll find a way down to the road on the way out.

short rock wall

    After a sweeping curve to the northwest the trail gets much more interesting after entering an old road, from 30-50 feet to the edge of the bluffline the views of Richland Creek below open up dramatically.  With all the recent precipitation I cross a couple very tall wet weather falls, although here on the top I can’t actually see the falls.

stonework reservoir?

    The bluffs don’t last long, about a quarter mile later and right next to the trail is a short segment of an old rock wall, evidently there once was a homestead here long ago.  Just 100 feet further at a small creek is an abundance of stonework in and at the edges of the little stream.  My only guess is this was possibly a reservoir built to provide year-round water to the nearby home.

no horses on the OHT

    Past the little creek stonework, I soon enter a large boulder field with giant rocks all around.  Then come two more wet creek crossings, I have lost count how many wet crossings I’ve had today but all have been easy, across on mostly dry stone.  The last of these is sort of unusual as multiple small streams are seeping from a huge rock jumble before combining into a single little creek and flowing down the steep hillside.

in the boulder field

    Now hearing flowing water up ahead, I must be getting close to Long Branch, easily the biggest drainage crossing the OHT along this southern portion of section 20 and is also my intended turn around point (for more Long Branch exploration see: 197 Long Branch Loop).  I leave the Ozark Highlands Trail before reaching Long Branch and head downhill toward the confluence of Long Branch with Richland Creek.  Not bad at first, it gets steeper as I go.

OHT mile marker

    Twenty feet up on a drop-off ledge above Richland Creek I angle my way back north and down the steep slope into rock strewn Long Branch.  Now I’m climbing over and around lots of big sharp rocks heading upstream along numerous little falls and cascades.  Soon I catch a peek of a nice waterfall maybe a hundred feet ahead and about the same time get my feet tangled in a grapevine, falling face first.

above confluence of Long Branch and Richland

    My upper lip takes the worst of it, getting busted on a sharp rock, I’m just glad I didn’t chip a tooth.  Once up and on my feet, I spit a little blood then continue (more cautiously now) upstream to the waterfall.  This is a beautiful little fall, 8-10 feet tall and when at its best maybe eight feet wide.  I thought about calling it Lower Long Branch Falls, but that’s a little too generic I’ll call it Fat Lip Falls instead.

rugged Long Branch

    I hang out here for a while admiring gorgeous little Fat Lip Falls licking my wounds and have some lunch, I'd bet this steep lower half mile of Long Branch has a few more impressive waterfalls.  Then after taking a few pictures, instead of backtracking the way I came down I climb up the steep gorge west back to the little ridge then uphill to the Ozark Highlands Trail.

Fat Lip Falls

    Nice to be back on an actual trail the mileage goes by pretty quick, soon I’m back on the old road and at the point where the OHT leaves the road up a gentle hill to the right.  But I choose to stay on the road, hoping my return route will include some great views of Richland Creek.  This old road is a little steep to begin and very washed out also has one big downed tree to detour around, but all-in-all not a bad choice.

upstream on Richland Creek

    In just under 300 yards, I’m at the bottom of the hill at an intersection with a better and flatter road.  At this T-intersection are a few handmade signs nailed on nearby trees pointing the way to ‘Richland Campground’ and landmarks I’m not familiar with such as ‘Moss Rock Campsite’ among others.  I turn right, upstream along fabulous Richland Creek.

rocky Richland Creek

    Now closer to Richland Creek there are lots of places with decent views of the raging river and soon I find an easy place to get down next to the water for some photos.  Right here at the edge of Richland Creek is a giant flat-topped boulder with thick moss on the top.  I find a way up to the top for some unobstructed shots of the river, this is a great spot I’ll call ‘Richland Moss Rock’ just because it is...

a better stretch of old road

    Continuing west the old road gets muddier as I go, before long I come to a small campsite with fire ring between road and river and a flat clean tent area across the road.  Then more mud and even some areas of flowing water down the roadway, also a few muddy detours that I avoid since they don’t look any better than the real road.  This is the routine for almost a quarter mile until I arrive at my truck parked next to the Richland Creek Trailhead.

lower Long Branch

    It seems the Ozark Highlands Trail always provides a great hiking experience wherever you choose to go, and I had a great time today busting my lip and finding a new waterfall.  Getting in and out of the Long Branch gorge wasn't easy, but other than that this was an wonderful hike of 5.3 miles and 640 feet of elevation gain.

Richland Creek

OHT Richland Creek: Statistics Chart 159  The wilderness can be accessed from all directions, which you choose largely depends on where you're coming from.  Today I came in from the north, first I drove SR 74 out of Mount Judea to Bass which is where the pavement ends.  At the south end of Bass where a new bridge is going in, cross Cave Creek on NC 5070 (some maps call this road Cave Creek Rd. on others it's Bass Rd.).

on Richland Moss Rock

Stay on NC 5070 up the mountain to the 3-way northwest corner of Richland Creek Wilderness.  Here veer to the left on NC 5080, passing Iceledo Gap then Dickey Junction.  Then you'll cross the county line where the road changes names to SC 1, better known as FR 1205 or Falling Water Road.  Continue south to OHT Richland Creek Trailhead parking area on your left, before coming to the Richland Creek concrete bridge.

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