78 Indian Rockhouse

   We really have overlooked Indian Rockhouse, I don’t know why.  Maybe because Buffalo Point where Indian Rockhouse is located is the biggest most developed place on the river.  Buffalo Point pre-dates Buffalo National River by over 30 years, was created as Buffalo State Park back in 1938 by the state of Arkansas, the National Forest Service and the Civilian Conservation Corps.  It's a great place, with a ranger station, multiple camping areas, rental cabins and even a restaurant.  There are miles of hiking trails, including the Indian Rockhouse Trail.

small sinkhole

    We decide to check it out thinking since it’s the off-season at campgrounds and canoeing destinations, maybe we won’t encounter too many others out on the trails.  Also, today's the day after Thanksgiving, everyone should be shopping (Black Friday) or laying around the house with the lingering effects of tryptophan.  Anyway, here we are at the parking area, which is pretty full, we manage to squeeze in.

Sinkhole Icebox

    Crossing the paved road to the signed trailhead we see right away that there are people everywhere.  Indian Rockhouse Trail starts off down the hill on an old road and leaves the road just before crossing the creek.  Downstream we go, soon we’re passed by a guy with his dog, we tend to hike slow so this will become a common trend today.  Right away just off the trail on our right is a small sinkhole, then downhill a little farther a much bigger one left of the trail.

nice trail

  This is the ‘Sinkhole Icebox’ which is reputedly a popular hangout in the heat of summer.  While checking it out a small family of three slips past us, some will pass us, others will be passed by us, some will even become acquaintances as we pass each other multiple times.  We’ll encounter large groups, some from out-of-state, some church groups, old folks and young kids of all shapes and sizes.  Anyway, you get the idea, I’ll stop with the minute by minute ‘people encounter’ updates, suffice it to say, ‘we are not alone’.

Rockhouse Falls (not much water but lots of people)

    Downhill from Sinkhole Icebox about 200 yards are some rock stairs then a trail intersection, the short rocky spur takes us out to the top of a bluff with a great view of a nice 30-foot waterfall, I have heard this referred to as ‘Rockhouse Falls’.  I'll bet it's beautiful with more waterflow, up here at the top is a great place to view it.  Back to Indian Rockhouse Trail we continue down more rock steps to the bottom of the small drainage, the trail turns left back upstream to the base of Rockhouse Falls which today is almost dry.

Rockhouse Falls

    We leave the falls heading north along the base of the broken bluffline, then downhill and a sharp turn left brings us to the entrance to a zinc mine in the side of the hill.  The story goes this was an exploratory shaft that never produced any profitable ore and was quickly abandoned.  We don't go in, although we would have liked to check it out, the long line waiting to get in convince us to skip it.  

hole in the roof of the 'smaller' shelter

    Downhill further we soon come to Panther Creek, the trail turns left (upstream) at the creek.  Along the edge of the bank, this quarter mile or so must be interesting when the water’s high, or at least very ‘wet’.  When the trail goes to the left leaving the creek bank we see a nice shelter cave a short way off the trail on our left, the way in to check it out is littered with huge rocks, a large group that was behind us asks ‘Is this the Indian Rockhouse?’, I answer ‘no’ they keep going.

plenty of signage along the trails

    This is a very nice place, compared to most of the shelter caves we see while hiking I would call this a big shelter.  Not having seen the Indian Rockhouse yet I assume this is ‘small’ in comparison, but I’m still impressed, it even has a large hole in the roof at its right side.  After some picture taking and a short break it’s back to the Rockhouse Trail, we continue northwest soon coming to an intersection after a small creek crossing.

approaching Indian Rockhouse

    Left is a short connector trail to the Return Trail, we stay on Rockhouse Trail and cross Panther Creek now on the old road again, there is even some asphalt pavement.  Continuing upstream above the bank of Panther Creek for about 0.3 miles then back to the west side and another intersection.  Left is the Return Trail, continuing north uphill on Rockhouse Trail we're still on the old road.  The trail tops out on a low ridge before dropping to a curve left and a faint trail off to the right up a small creek.

is a large shelter with a cave in the back and a skylight.
the 'skylight' in Indian Rockhouse

   Straight ahead in front of us is Indian Rockhouse, we cross Panther Creek, quite small and dry, then up the rocky dusty trail into the massive 270-foot-wide entrance of this gigantic shelter.  In all the Ozarks this is the second largest shelter cave, only Cob Cave at Lost Valley is bigger, to me Indian Rockhouse feels bigger.  The main room is about 100 feet deep and the ceiling is 50 feet high, just like the smaller shelter earlier Indian Rockhouse has a big hole in the roof; ‘the skylight’.

flowstone in Indian Rockhouse

    There is no sense of ‘claustrophobia’ in this cavernous shelter, it’s so big that even with the 40-50 other people in here, it still feels ‘empty’.  We go down to a creek which flows out of a low cave then along the west side before disappearing underground near the front.  Above this creek back in the northwest corner of the main room is another cave with passages back into the depths.  I explore first straight back maybe 80 feet to a left turn that takes me another 70 feet to a room with smaller hand-holes going who knows where, here my flashlight goes dim and I turn back.

at the cave in the back of Indian Rockhouse

   Before leaving Indian Rockhouse we meet a man from Marshall who tells us a story about three teenage boys who drowned in the underground creek while exploring the low cave at the back of the shelter years ago; they were in there ‘on a dare’ with very little caving experience, a moral for this story, always be careful out there, not just in caves, be cautious and don’t get into a situation beyond your abilities. Indian Rockhouse is awesome, we could spend hours here, we leave the east side under the skylight for another day.

Sculptured Rock

    We head back on Indian Rockhouse Trail, the way we came to the intersection just before crossing Panther Creek with the Return Trail.  Staying straight on Return Trail and south on the west side of the creek soon crossing a small ravine on a wooden bridge and where the trail gets close to Panther Creek, we stop to investigate an area known as ‘Sculptured Bedrock’.  Much of Panther Creek flows over solid bedrock, in places the moving water over has eroded the stone ‘smooth’ and has ‘sculpted’ interesting dips, holes and pools along the stream course, it’s all very interesting and pretty too.

on top the 'alcove' at Pebble Spring

    Less than 100 yards further is Pebble Spring, in an interesting ‘little alcove’ where there's a short bluff about 40 feet tall but only 80 feet long.  The little cove appears to have been created by the spring itself, there is some gravel spread all over the creek here and I assume this is why it’s called ‘Pebble Spring’.  The spring is quite lush with lots of moss but not much water, at least not today.  We climb out of the little cove and continue on the trail around the top of the alcove.

Natural Bathtub

    About 0.2 miles further is the short connector trail to the Rockhouse Trail just 50 feet away.  Here we turn to the west and up a side drainage flowing down into Panther Creek.  Right away on the left maybe 25 feet off the trail is the ‘Natural Bathtub’ another place where the forces of erosion have done their work creating a big bathtub in the solid bedrock, there are other similar ‘jacuzzi’ up and down Panther Creek but few on this small side stream.

waterslide near Natural Bathtub

    We now head upstream and uphill to the southwest on the feeder steam soon crossing the creek and up some rock steps, then after the trail swings to the south the slope really starts to climb.  A steep climb out of the side drainage brings us onto another old road and off the trail to our left (north) 50 yards is the old ‘CCC Quarry’.

yup, that's the trail, see the hiker near the top?

   The quarry is where the stone used for cabins, culverts, bridge abutments, picnic shelters and more came from.  It was quite an operation, the CCC put hundreds of local men to work here during the great depression, Buffalo Point remains a testament to their hard work.  Leaving the quarry the trail follows the old road on a gentler grade uphill, just over a quarter mile we reach the top.  Here the trail parallels the main road into Buffalo Point for about 200 yards to the Indian Rockhouse Trailhead, and across the road is the parking lot.


the stone quarry

    And what a great hike, with lots of natural wonders all along the trail and the majestic Indian Rockhouse the highlight at the end, this is definitely a ‘must see’ that we will surely come to again in the future (see: 170 Indian Rockhouse Trail).  Though we won’t be coming back on a Friday or the weekend and definitely not on any holiday weekends.  Today we hiked 3.6 miles with an altitude gain of 516 feet.  

a light in the abyss

Indian Rockhouse: Statistics Chart 78     At the intersection of Hwy.14/268 about 1.7 miles north of the Highway 14 bridge over the Buffalo River turn east on Highway 268 (Buffalo Point Road) and go about 2.5 miles to the Indian Rockhouse Trailhead and parking area.

base map before fair use alterations is property of USGS Topo--licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 U.S. License

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