203 River Crossings Loop

     Today is the first day since back in May that the forecast high temp for the day isn’t supposed to reach seventy.  To say ‘it has been a long summer’ is an understatement, I’ve been positively ‘giddy’ with anticipation for the start of hiking season ever since I saw the weather forecast for today about a week ago, and in the meantime have been planning where to go.

Red Bluff on the Buffalo

    Doing some map studying I came up with a nice little loop hike that appears to be almost entirely on-trail, after all it’s not the time of year for bushwhacking.  This loop will also cross the Buffalo River twice, and now is a good time of year for wet crossings.  The river levels are low and the water warm, perfect for getting your feet wet.  Plus, although I haven’t hiked this route before, I have seen both crossings and know they should be shallow (across shoals).

Sand Hole

at shoal downstream of Sand Hole

    Sand Hole just upstream from Red Bluff is a starting location I know well, it’s one of our favorite swimming holes (see: 120 Sand Hole).  From the ample parking area it’s a short walk in my water sandals down to the beach area on the Buffalo, but once I get onto the gravel bar I turn north and head downstream to the obvious shoal just over 1000 feet from where I parked.

Red Bluff

Red Bluff Hole

    This first crossing is exactly what I was hoping for: about fifty feet across, not too slippery and only about eight inches deep.  And on the other side a nice big rock to sit on and change into my boots.  Strolling around the bend of the river under impressive Red Bluff, I pass the trail heading up the bank and into the woods as I want to check out down river and Red Bluff Hole less than 100 yards ahead.

the Sand Hole Slime

    Red Bluff Hole looks great with a beach of small gravel some big flat rocks in the river below the bank on the other side and a flat campsite here above the river.  I backtrack to where I thought the trail south heads into the woods, but evidently this isn’t it as it fizzles out right away.  But no big deal, I soon land on the real trail and a good trail it is.  I don’t know if this little spur to the Ozark Highlands/Buffalo River Trail has a name, so I’ll call it ‘Boy Scout Monument Spur’.

what I thought was the trail

    Yeah, I’m a little curious to see the ‘Monument’ of which I haven’t found any information or pictures.  But before I get there this really nice clean trail through the woods gradually climbs some but doesn’t get very close to the bluffline, so the only views of the river below are obstructed by lots of trees.  Just when I’m about to give up on the Boy Scouts, I notice a blue blaze nailed to a tree, the first one I’ve seen.

Boy Scout Monument?

    And that’s when I see it, about 30 feet east of the trail is a square stone and mortar platform.  It’s about eight feet square maybe 30 inches high and has a definite downhill slope to the front (???).  With a ‘step’ at the front edge this doesn’t look like any kind of monument I’ve ever seen, it looks more like a platform that the whole troop can stand on and pose for pictures, I would love to hear the story of when it was built and for what purpose.

Boy Scout Spur ends at OH/BRT

    Continuing on to the south this spur trail soon ends at the OH/BRT, the intersection is well marked with both white and blue blazes.  Just east of the junction is an old rock wall along the trail, I continue south down a couple stone steps and around through a short bluffline.  The Ozark Highlands/Buffalo River Trail continues south and slightly downhill for a way, getting further from the river as the low bluff gets taller.

old rock wall at trail junction

    Above the trail I see a small overhang shelter, then the trail slowly curves to the southwest before going down a couple more natural stone steps and soon onto an old road.  The road is in great shape, clean and could easily be driven, in fact I soon notice tire tracks in the dried mud.  It’s a straight shot for about a quarter mile then after a slight curve to the left is a cluster of seven sycamores maybe 50 feet off the trail.

obstructed river view along trail

google berry?

    Just over 100 yards after passing the sycamores is a road junction, the OH/BRT turns right here and soon the trail leaves the road to the right.  About 50 feet after leaving the road the trail follows an old fence line, there is little evidence of the old wood fence other than a few rotted posts and a couple boards.  The real highlight of this fence line is the tall mature cedars that stand in a straight line about 100 yards long.

7 sycamore cluster

    At the end of the line of cedars the trail lands on the road where the OH/BRT turns right (southwest) with Brush Creek down below.  In only 230 feet is a spur trail, the old railroad grade cut through the hillside.  Looking down into Brush Creek on my left I see two big concrete piers that once supported the railroad trestle over the creek.  I leave the OH/BRT turning north on Railroad Spur.

trail along cedar line

    The spur trail isn’t very long, soon ending on top of the first of the four railroad trestle piers at the south side of the Buffalo River.  Standing here on top of the pier should provide a nice river overlook after all the leaves have fallen.  The plan was to get down to the river from here and cross the Buffalo before making my way up to Railroad Grade Trail.

below the first pier

    After looking around I do find a faint and steep trail that gets me down below the concrete bridge abutment, but then the trail fades away leaving me bushwhacking my way through thick underbrush and tall weeds in a westerly direction towards Brush Creek.  At least it’s not very far, after a short slide down the muddy sandy weed covered bank on my butt, I’m in dry graveled Brush Creek.

looking upstream in Brush Creek

    About 100 feet down Brush Creek I’m at the edge of the Buffalo and just downriver see a convenient leaning tree to change out my footwear.  This shoal just upstream of where the trestle once stood is a little deeper than my earlier crossing.  In places just over a foot deep, it’s also slippery with green algae on the smooth round rocks.  I slowly make my way across, thankful for the hiking stick that helps with balance in the swift current.

near Brush Creek-Buffalo confluence

    Now back on familiar ground, Kat and I visited this north side of the river about 20 months ago (see: 162 Railroad Grade Trail).  I don’t find a handy log or rock to sit on so I change back into the boots leaning against the third giant trestle pier, then head over to the sandy beginnings of the obvious trail up to the railroad grade.  Once up on the ‘grade’ it’s just over 700 feet till I leave the Railroad Grade Trail.

shoal above trestle piers

    This little trail that heads northeast and is in surprisingly good shape, I’m going to call ‘Sand Hole Trail’ because it ends at Sand Hole Road and the road ends at Sand Hole.  I soon approach a mostly dry creek crossing and off to the left see the remains of a house consisting of the stone foundation.  A hundred feet after the creek is a tiny seep spring to my left in the big rocks of a short low bluff, then the trail lands on an old road.

looking back across shoal at shoe change tree

    The old road continues about a quarter mile to its end on Sand Hole Road with a roadside parking spot near an overgrown carbonite (plastic) trail marker.  The last third of a mile back to the truck is nothing new as I just drove down this road getting here a couple hours ago, two mudholes today although I’ve seen this road in much worse condition.

second pier is the tallest

third pier up from the south

    This loop hike with river crossings was 3.1 miles and 278 feet of altitude gain.  All the trails I followed were in great shape includes in order: Boy Scout Monument Trail, portion of Ozarks Highlands/Buffalo River Trail, dead end Railroad Spur, portion of Railroad Grade Trail, and Sand Hole Trail.  Of course river crossings are only possible when levels are low, and hiking along the river would have to be classified a bushwhack even though it’s clean and easy.

Sand Hole Rd. @ end of Sand Hole Trail

    The only rough bit of hiking today was from the bottom of the south pier through the jungle to Brush Creek.  I would recommend skipping the Railroad Spur unless you really want to stand on top of one of the piers, and just continue on the OH/BRT down to Brush Creek then follow the creek to the Buffalo, a little longer sure but I’ll bet a whole lot easier.  Anyway you do it this is a great hike and surprisingly easy, and the perfect way to break in hiking season.

parking area @ end of Sand Hole Rd.

River Crossings Loop: Statistics Chart 203 Getting here can be a little confusing: in St. Joe leave SR 65 east on SR 374 for just over half a mile then continue east on paved Osbourne Road.  Stay on Osbourne for about 5.7 miles to where the pavement ends at Tomahawk Slab Road. Turn left (east) on Tomahawk Slab go about 0.75 miles and turn right (south) on Mercy Lane, then in around 0.4 miles right again (south) onto Sand Hole Road.  Follow Sand Hole all the way to its end at the parking area.  Sand Hole Rd. is a little steep and rugged, high ground clearance and 4WD is recommended.