185 Miss Hickman on the Buffalo

     Back to the Buffalo to do more exploring, this time upriver from Pruitt about half way to Erbie.  A few years ago while out scouting for swimming holes off NC 2890, we found only one swimming area that was close enough to hike in summer’s heat.  But we did find some old roads (with gates) that seemed inviting as possible hiking routes.  The weather man is predicting today to be the ‘pick day of the week for getting outdoors’ so it's back to the Buffalo.

beautiful scene on the Buffalo River

    At a sharp curve with a heavy wood gate I park off the road being careful not to block the gate.  Going south beyond a second gate on my right are some ruins, first a concrete block foundation that isn’t very wide, hard to figure out what this might have been.  But just behind is a larger poured concrete foundation obviously once a house.  Then the road enters a big field where the roadway becomes a trail before vanishing completely.

big hay field on ridge

fall berry bush

    Not a problem though, this huge field must've been cut late in the haying season the green grass is only about three inches high, very easy hiking.  Making my way downhill along the edge of the field for about five hundred yards to a very big oak tree not far from the edge of the field.  I head west into a smaller field and find a trail marker for the Old River Trail, which goes right past the big oak on the right and a little overgrown pond left, then back out into another field.

big oak dwarfs everything else

    This big field hasn’t been cut this year, the golden grass is about two feet tall, the ORT fades away pretty quick.  I continue gradually downhill now mostly north staying close to the edge of the woods.  Even though the grass is higher this is still very easy hiking, at the bottom corner of the field the ORT re-appears leaving the field down through the woods to the Buffalo River.

ORT evaporates in the fields

un-cut field

    Getting closer to the river there are lots of big trees piled up all along the bank, and of course the ORT disappears again.  I make my way through downed trees along a low bluff down to the river.  Maybe I can see where the trail comes out on the other side, but I could be wrong, the water doesn’t look too deep.  A crossing here wouldn’t be bad but I have no desire to get my feet wet today (breaking in a new pair of boots).

ORT river crossing

High Dive Bluff

    I head back through the driftwood and lots of soft sand up to the top of the bank, now following the river downstream and staying at the edge of the field.  After 300 yards or so this field ends at a little gully, finding a way across into the next field at a game camera strapped on a tree.  Noticing bluffs through the thin border of woods between field and river I decide to check it out.

sycamore leaning over river

reflections at Miss Hickman Spring Hole

    Getting to river level is more of the same: big trees piled up along the bank, lots of soft sand underfoot.  Down through a mountain of sand and debris of brush I’m on a thin gravel bar looking across at a beautiful scene of bluffs and river.  The bluff is maybe twenty feet tall and has a flat ledge rock on top that hangs out over what appears to be a deep swimming hole, hmm  High Dive Bluff? (user beware diving is dangerous).


debris in the trees, sand on the ground

    For the next 200 yards downstream I’m able to stay down close to the water walking in the sand with only a few downed trees to navigate around.  Past a big Sycamore leaning way out over the river is a huge pile-up of deadwood which forces me to climb back up the bank and into the field, but not for long.

another gorgeous swimming hole under the bluff

slanting boulder near mouth of Sawmill Hollow

    Now in a low flood plain with timber debris everywhere and piles of brush 10-12 feet high wedged against trees still standing it’s all sort of surreal, but I’m still walking in soft sand, I head back to the river.  Here is the location of ‘Miss Hickman Spring Hole’ but the almost 1500 foot long swimming hole doesn’t look to be more than about three feet deep, we know though, it's always deeper than it looks. 

an island of gravel

Porch Bluff

    Briefly back up on top the bank in the field, then right back down 200 yards later I’m at Porch Bluff which is only 10-15 feet high but the flat top hangs out way over the river, canoes can glide by under the ‘porch’ another beautiful setting to be sure.  Under Porch Bluff the river looks plenty deep to swim.  Just downstream at the mouth of Sawmill Hollow I recognize the big slanting boulder that years ago when hiking on the BRT had two big trees deposited by flood waters laying on top (see: 41 Cedar Glade to Adair).

Porch Bluff beyond remains of a mangled tree

slanting boulder and downstream

    From here I’ll head back up the hill all the way to the top, leaving the soft sand behind.  It’s mostly across big open fields of short cut grass, all very easy hiking and I realize this entire hike has been a bushwhack except for about a hundred yards on the Old River Trail.  But possibly the easiest bushwhack I've ever done, the mileage was 2.7 with 250 feet elevation gain, easy and 100% enjoyable.  What a way to spend the ‘pick day of the week’.


more easy hiking on the way back to the top

Miss Hickman Hole: Statistic Chart 185     From Highway 7 just north of the Buffalo River bridge take NC 2890 (4-WD recommended) west for about 5 miles to where the road makes a sharp turn to the right at a heavy wood gate.  Park here but don't block the gate, there's room for maybe three vehicles.

base map before fair use alterations is property of USGS--licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 U.S. License




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