I've wanted to see Indian Creek for a long long time, but every account of this area always seems to include
warnings. Phrases used to describe the
hike like ‘very dangerous’ ‘slippery and steep’ ‘use extreme caution’ have kept
me away...and it’s true Indian Creek has more hiking injuries than any other
area of the Buffalo National River.
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trailside spring
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Unfortunately,
a hiker from Missouri fell to his death here just last month, and he wasn’t the
first. Even with all the warnings Indian
Creek is one of the most popular hiking destinations in the park, part of
that is probably because it is so
dangerous. Some people see it as a
challenge, but another big draw to Indian Creek is its
high level of awesome
beauty. |
at the start of Indian Creek Trail
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Today I’m hiking alone, Kat read of someone’s adventure
up Indian Creek online and said, ‘no thanks’. Parking is at the trailhead at the west end of
Kyle’s Landing campground, with room for maybe six cars. Monday morning and Kyle’s is
full of people with lots of camping type
activity everywhere, the place smells fantastic with breakfasts of bacon sizzling over campfires
of hickory oak and cedar. My loose plan for Indian Creek is to just head up the creek
and see how far I get.
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at a side stream
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I'd like to get to Copperhead Falls
and Tunnel Cave Falls, hiking alone I won’t push my luck. As soon as it gets a little crazy, I’ll turn around, I wouldn’t want to become one of the
statistics. I head southwest from
the trailhead on the BRT/ORT and immediately cross dry Bear Creek. From here to the start of the Indian Creek
Trail is about half a mile and there are six major trail intersections along
the way, all are well marked with square posts in the ground. There's also several
unmarked trails leading into the woods, most of these to campsites.
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Indian Creek
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The trail so far has been excellent and Indian Creek Trail it's no
different, obviously this is a popular hike, the unmaintained trail is well
worn from years of heavy use and in great shape. Heading upstream along the east bank of
Indian Creek the scenery is just gorgeous, hiking alone I’m getting in-tune to all of nature’s beauty around
me including the peaceful sounds of the babbling creek and the morning
songbirds.
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first crossing
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Indian Creek is flowing
swift, most places 10-15 feet wide with occasional wider pools, all in all very pretty. I notice the bluffs are getting taller and beginning to slowly squeeze closer to the creek. Many sheer drops
along both sides of the creek have water running off ledges into the creek, with lush green foliage everywhere I only catch glimpses of the bluffs. Indian
Creek Trail soon passes a little spring just off the trail with a small
pool at the base of a low bluff.  |
rugged feeder stream
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Another quarter mile the trail arrives at the first creek crossing, I've read there are
three crossings before Copperhead
falls, I’ve come prepared with my water sandals in the pack. It’s not deep here, maybe a foot the
crossing is easy. About 200 yards later the trail comes to a
spot where the low bluff comes tight against the creek the trail climbs up
through a gap in the rock maybe 15 feet up then back south along the ledge.
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little ledge falls
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I’m soon back down at creek
level on bedrock where the trail completely vanishes temporarily. After a short climb up another low bluff
at water’s edge the creek turns slightly to the west and I come to the second
crossing. Again
I make the easy crossing, I decide these wet crossings are nice as they give me a chance to take a short break while changing
footwear and enjoy the beauty. |
tranquil Indian Creek
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Back on the east side of Indian Creek in just over 100 yards the
trail comes to a side drainage where a little creek tumbles down the steep
drainage before falling off a ledge about 12-15 feet into a big, beautiful
pool
on Indian Creek. About five feet below
the top of this ledge the trail
crosses on a tiny ledge about six
inches wide. It’s maybe twenty feet
across to the other side with water flowing off it only in
the middle.
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Indian Creek
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There are no convenient
little trees to hold onto, just solid rock, I hold on as best I can and inch my
way out toward the middle where the little creek slides off into Indian Creek ten feet below my feet. With my first cautious step onto the ‘wet’ rock my
foot slips right off, luckily my other foot holds firm still on the ‘dry’
narrow ledge.
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low bluffs
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Well, in about two seconds
I decide this is it, the end of the road, but I can’t turn around pinned
against the sheer rock face of this ledge I back
out slowly about eight feet back to where I can step off the ledge. Back on a firm
footing I check the GPS, it’s still at least half a mile to
Copperhead Falls. I look for another way
up and around this side drainage but don’t find anything, when this little
creek dries up it wouldn’t be a problem crossing this narrow ledge, but not
today. |
wet n wild
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Heading back downstream I remember that it's only about 100 yards to the second Indian Creek crossing, but before I get there
I notice a well-worn
trail heading uphill and away from the creek, curious I follow it. This trail is clear and easy going without
much elevation change, soon as I approach some low
bluffs This
little bluffline doesn’t last long but about halfway
is a small dry shelter
and a couple rock overhangs above.
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scenic bluffs along Indian Creek
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Near the end of the bluff I gradually make my way downhill, the trail is
still in great shape with nothing remotely challenging. Well...Ok maybe I spoke too soon, just as I
reach the bottom at a side drainage is a short ledge of smooth rounded stone
where I’m forced to sit on my butt and slide down a few feet to some big flat
rocks someone has stacked here, probably to aid hikers going up. |
upper trail along bluff
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Twenty feet or so ahead is a lovely little pouroff waterfall shooting out
through a slot in the bedrock then freefalling 6-7 feet into a pool before flowing down another 15 feet or so to Indian Creek. Still on good easy trail for
about 200 yards to some good-sized
boulders at another very tiny drainage
the trail comes out along Indian Creek just upstream from creek crossing #1.
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serene Indian Creek
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Back on the familiar trail I’m
thinking about how easy and pleasant this hike has been, of course I did have
to turn around just as things were starting to get interesting, and I’m sure it would have gotten more difficult the
further I went. But that will be a hike for another day. Although I didn't reach my intended destination, I feel no disappointment whatsoever, as this hike has been very interesting and enjoyable all the way, from beginning to end. |
little pouroff waterfall
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I turn west at a faint trail intersection to Gray Rock since I’ve never seen it. It’s a short sandy spur trail less than 100 yards back to the Buffalo River.
The Buffalo
is in ‘flood stage’ with fast water and
standing waves the river is
‘brown’ from all the turbulence and run-off.
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boaters beware
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I have seen pictures of Gray Rock which once was one of the rivers major
obstacles for boaters, today with the river so high only about two feet of Gray
Rock is above the water. From here it’s
not far back to Kyle’s and I’m at the truck in no time. I didn’t make it to Copperhead Falls but that’s ok, I didn’t want to put
myself at risk for injury. |
high water on the Buffalo
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Now with more
determination than ever I will come back, maybe this fall when everything dries
out some, when hiking along the cliffs and ledges will be easier (and safer),
we’ll see. Of course,
that’s the ole
‘waterfall chaser’s conundrum’: when the water is high, the falls are fabulous,
but the hike can be slippery and dangerous.
Today’s aborted hike was still fantastic, the total distance including
exploring the area around Gray Rock was 3.7 miles and with 395 feet of
elevation gain. |
Gray Rock across flooded Buffalo
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Kyle’s Landing is easy enough to get
to, but the road is steep and reportedly gets pretty slippery when wet so go
slow and enjoy. Turn north off of
Highway 74 in Mt. Sherman onto NC 2650 Kyle’s Landing Road follow this west all the
way to its end, at the back of Kyle’s Landing Campground and park here at the
BRT/ORT trailhead. It’s about 2.7 miles
down the dirt road to the parking area.
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